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Tack!

Why are you using nickel strips instead of Copper?

Hi. My question is, how can switching on and off be timed?

Why would you soldier directly to the buttons and joystick? These are wearable parts and at some point, will need to be replaced. Just use crimp on connectors. It will save time in assembly and down the road when replacement parts are evolved. Other than that great build.

If doing more of these and under 6s for anyone watching skyRC I'ma B6AC is awesome hobby charger that leaves you in control.

First let me say the hands on part was awesome 👍🏻 😎 I haven't done the calculations but the nickel plate strip may cause a heat issue depending on the current draw. Always opt for pure nickel if you can. Though that spot welder wouldn't be able to do .15 pure probably. Did you check your AMO draw and your ends where the main positives and negatives are located? May need a nice 12 awg copper wire at each end where the current ends and passes

Got my subscription

Hi question for you. I am currently in the middle of this project. The button kit that I got requires 28mm holes for the buttons and a 24mm hole for the joystick. Did you buy specific drill bits for this? I am having a hard time finding hole saw drill bits for these sizes. Also, what router bit did you use to make the cut out for the joystick?

Where can I get BOM and code for this project?

On Amazon 2 18650 batteries is about $32CDN while a 12V Lithium battery is about $130+. It is much cheaper to buy the 12V battery than make one.

Making my first arcade build : ) this video was great

Did you line up the beat with the spot weld lol

The one thing I really wanted to hear you talk about was sizing the BMS appropriately for the cells discharge rate. Can you comment please on the current requirements for your onewheel and why you chose the BMS you did?

Hey does anybody have a welding diagram for both sides of the unit? Like does anybody have a diagram for welding 13 cells with 4 18650 batteries a cell in series while connecting 4 in parallel? ❤ Love this video! Thank you so much for sharing. Subbed!!

I purchased an EBike with an unusual seat battery housing, so when the cells die, I'll have to replace them inside the housing because I doubt a replacement battery pack will be available at that time. I have good electronics experience, and this will help. Replicating the layout of the pack should make things easier.

Do the LED lights in the eyes show Health indication or just animated? It's a really cool build

External MOSFETS mean you don't have to worry at all about what the Motherboard can (or can't) handle current-wise. It simply removes a potential problem that you just don't need.

Always have a metal box (ideally with some sand in it) by your side when handling these cells. You'll be thankful if you can throw a burning one in there and close the lid :)

I expected a more usable outcome ngl xD btw still nice work.

Make it better lol it's a good idea but looks like it sucks to use

Yooo keep up the work dawg!

Lame

Me watching this video: "Hmm yes these are all words that I definitely completely understand 🤔"

2nd

That is insane!!!! So sick!! 😮

imagine if people would have personal digital assistans in pocket or on hand to notify etc

Wow, this is so much fun I want to do this project so bad and I love your attention to detail. I'm the same way. My kind of guy subscribed thank you for the video.

LMAO you synced the welding to the music? :D

Awesome project! Does the arduino need constant 5V DC to run the code allowing it to work?

I'd like to build these. Do you have information available to do that?

Is there a BOM and code for this project? Would like to build this for fun.

Watching this video 🙀 how adavanced wil HAL 9000 (chatgPT4 omni) become ❓ I finaly turned chatGPT plus into HAL 9000 🙀

When handling your signal wire like shown @6:40 make sure you are isolated and have no connection to ground. Otherwise you will close the circuit by just touching the exposed part of the signal wire and potentially hurt yourself. I recommend to use a button on the breadboard to test your relay and not do what is shown in this video!

someone with electronics knowledge pls explain this... Why do we need a MOSFET and all those ? if we just amplify the signal to around 4V and use the 'NORMALLY OPEN' port with the common, switch will be closed when the signal gives a 4V & Switch will be opened while the signal gives below 4V. that way you don't have to deal with that reverse logic. I think there was a reason why you didn't do so. if someone knows it, pls explain...

interesting pro but so much things to do and veey tedius tonmake sure everything is corret. to be honest i rather buy too dangerous to do it myself unless i have nothinh to dot..but anywhere thks for ur sharing

Never played that game. So the whole point is to make more hits than your opponent I guess?!? Ok.

For a fairer game over Internet, both player must play through a server that would not be local to your house.

Why did you have to pixelate drill a hole?

I agree with others. The lack of real "Punch" undercuts the experience. Also In the Game they move. So you can move your guy in and out of range. Its also the heads that you are trying to hit. Not count body shots. I think put the IMU in the heads and change you 4 bar linkages so they strike towards the faces. Then put them on linear rails (Most likely double v wheels will be good enough) so you can move them in and out of range. also allow some torso swivels so you can aim the hits better. I know it took a lot to get to this point and They look awesome but could use some refinements and tweaks.

I like how the red robots and/or your shirt reflects in the RUclips button in the shot around around 1:05, making it look like a red YT logo.

Great build however I feel I must address the giant elephant in the room that the Robots dont really make contact with each other which to me is a great disservice to the game. My suggestion would be to design the fists to have some sort of "springyness" in them so when they make contact you're not damaging any components. You could also design the chest piece to have some give to absorb the impacts and make it much more realistic to the original toys. I would also make it so the robots can rotate slightly and slide back and forth slightly just to give the user more "control" of the robot fight.

When the blue robot punches the red and exerts a force, how does the IMU know if the blue robot was punching or getting punched

You should put them on moving platforms that would allow you to also slide backward and forward to dodge attacks

wow, hes alive

This could be a great project to show at OpenSauce

Great job 🥊🥊

Are you gonna change the base to allow the robots to move and turn like the original toy?

Come at me, bro! Let's internet fight!

I didnt understand this video very good, so what kind of relay do you need to use for a wired magnetic window switch, to turn off and on the air conditioner when window opens or closes. AC 3000w. Thank you, best regards

J Channel also works well for this